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Gas vs EV Cost Calculator

The Gas vs. EV Cost Calculator compares the annual fuel/energy cost of driving a gas-powered vehicle versus an electric vehicle, based on your typical annual mileage. Works in U.S. units (miles, MPG, mi/kWh) or metric (kilometers, L/100km, kWh/100km). Both vehicles' annual costs scale linearly from the same "cost per mile (or km)" figure, so if your actual annual mileage differs from what you enter, the dollar comparison shifts proportionally for both vehicles — the EV's advantage in dollars grows or shrinks with total distance driven, even though its per-mile advantage stays fixed. The calculator uses one flat electricity price for the whole year, but real-world EV costs can run lower on an off-peak or time-of-use utility rate, or noticeably higher if you rely heavily on public DC fast charging. Since the comparison covers energy costs only, it's meant to be paired with the separate maintenance, insurance, and purchase-price differences between the two vehicles when weighing true total cost of ownership.

Intermediate⏱ 1-2 minutesUpdated 2026-10-28
Units

Switch between U.S. Customary and Metric units.

miles
MPG
$/gal
mi/kWh
$/kWh
Enter your details above and click “Compare Gas vs EV Costs” to see your results here.

How This Tool Works

Pick your units, then enter your annual distance, your gas vehicle's fuel economy and fuel price, and your EV's efficiency and electricity price to compare annual fuel/energy costs.

Formula & Method

U.S.: gas cost per mile = gas price ÷ MPG; EV cost per mile = electricity price ÷ (miles per kWh). Metric: gas cost per km = (L/100km ÷ 100) × price per liter; EV cost per km = (kWh/100km ÷ 100) × price per kWh. Annual cost = cost per distance × annual distance driven.

Example Calculation

U.S. units: driving 15,000 miles/year, a 25 MPG gas car at $3.20/gallon has a cost per mile of $3.20 ÷ 25 = $0.128/mile, so annual gas cost = $0.128 × 15,000 = $1,920. An EV at 4 mi/kWh and $0.16/kWh has a cost per mile of $0.16 ÷ 4 = $0.04/mile, so annual EV cost = $0.04 × 15,000 = $600. Annual savings = $1,920 − $600 = $1,320. In metric: driving 24,000 km/year, a gas car at 9 L/100km and $1.60/liter has a cost per km of (9 ÷ 100) × $1.60 = $0.144/km, so annual gas cost = $0.144 × 24,000 = $3,456. An EV at 20 kWh/100km and $0.16/kWh has a cost per km of (20 ÷ 100) × $0.16 = $0.032/km, so annual EV cost = $0.032 × 24,000 = $768. Annual savings = $3,456 − $768 = $2,688.

Please note: This calculator provides estimates for general informational purposes only and is not financial advice. Actual rates, terms, taxes, and costs vary — consult a qualified financial professional before making financial decisions.

About the Gas vs EV Cost Calculator

Comparing a gasoline car with an electric one is harder than it looks, because the two vehicles report efficiency in different units and buy energy in different packages. A gas car is rated in miles per gallon and fueled at a pump priced per gallon. An EV is rated in miles per kilowatt-hour, or kilowatt-hours per 100 miles, and charged from a meter priced per kWh. This calculator translates both into the one unit that matters for budgeting, cost per mile (or per kilometer), then scales it by how far you drive in a year to show annual energy costs side by side.

The headline output is the annual difference, but the per-mile figures are often more instructive. A gas car at 31 MPG with gasoline near $3.65 costs roughly 12 cents a mile to fuel, while an EV at about three miles per kWh with electricity near 22 cents can cost roughly 7 cents a mile. Those numbers are not forecasts; they simply show how the two vehicles respond to the prices you enter. Change the electricity rate or the gas price and you can see exactly where the advantage grows or disappears.

The comparison covers fuel and electricity only, on purpose. Purchase price, financing, insurance, maintenance, depreciation, registration fees, and charger installation are all real parts of ownership, and they can move the total in either direction. Treat this tool as the energy chapter of a longer story: a fast, transparent way to quantify how much you would save or spend per year on the energy that moves the car, which you can then weigh against everything else.

When to Use It

Deciding whether to buy an EV

A shopper weighing a new EV against a similar gas model enters their annual mileage, the efficiency of both cars, and local prices. The annual difference shows how much of the EV's higher purchase price could be offset by lower running costs each year, giving a concrete number to put into a total-cost comparison.

Testing how electricity rates change the answer

A household on a time-of-use plan can run the comparison twice, once with their expensive daytime rate and once with the cheap overnight rate. If the advantage barely changes, rate planning is not critical. If it changes a lot, scheduling charging overnight becomes a priority.

High-mileage drivers evaluating a switch

Rideshare drivers, sales reps, and long-distance commuters who put 20,000 miles or more on a car each year feel fuel costs acutely. Entering their real mileage shows how fast energy savings accumulate over time, and whether a higher purchase price might be recovered within a few years.

Comparing a hybrid or efficient gas car to an EV

Because the tool accepts any MPG, you can enter 50 MPG for a hybrid instead of a typical 25. The narrower gap that results is a reminder that the best comparison is between the specific vehicles you are considering, not between average gas cars and average EVs.

How to Use It, Step by Step

  1. Select U.S. or metric units. In U.S. mode you enter miles, MPG, price per gallon, and miles per kWh; in metric mode you enter kilometers, L/100km, price per liter, and kWh per 100 km.
  2. Enter Annual miles driven (or Annual distance driven in metric). The defaults are 12,000 miles or 20,000 km. Use your actual yearly mileage from service records, a recent odometer comparison, or insurance paperwork.
  3. Enter Gas vehicle MPG (or Gas fuel consumption in L/100km). Use the real-world figure for the specific gas car you would otherwise drive, not an average of all gas cars.
  4. Enter the Gas price, in dollars per gallon or per liter. Use what you typically pay at local stations, and consider using a slightly higher or lower number to test sensitivity.
  5. Enter EV efficiency in miles per kWh, or kWh per 100 km in metric mode. This appears on the EPA label as kWh per 100 miles; to convert that to miles per kWh, divide 100 by the label figure.
  6. Enter your Electricity price per kWh. For home charging, use your utility's rate; if you will rely on public chargers for a large share of energy, enter a blended price that reflects that mix.
  7. Press Compare Gas vs EV Costs and read the summary sentence and the highlighted Annual difference, then compare Gas cost per mile with EV cost per mile.
  8. Run alternative scenarios by raising the gas price, changing the electricity rate, or entering a more efficient gas model. Noting which input moves the answer most tells you where to focus your research.

Understanding Your Results

Gas cost per mile and EV cost per mile are the foundation: each is a price divided by an efficiency. Annual gas cost and Annual EV cost multiply those by the distance you drive, and Annual difference is the gap, displayed as a positive number with the summary sentence saying which vehicle is cheaper to run. Dollar amounts in the annual lines are rounded to whole dollars, while per-mile figures show three decimals, so small differences may appear when you check by hand.

To judge whether the result is plausible, check the efficiencies you entered. Gas passenger cars commonly range from the teens to the high 30s in MPG, and hybrids go higher. Electric cars commonly achieve about 2.5 to 4.5 miles per kWh depending on size, speed, and weather, though some fall outside that. If your annual EV cost looks absurdly low or high, check that you did not confuse miles per kWh with kWh per 100 miles, since those two figures move in opposite directions.

The most useful next step is a break-even test. The EV's per-mile cost equals the gas car's when the electricity price equals the gas cost per mile multiplied by the EV's miles per kWh. In the first example below, that works out to roughly 38 cents per kWh, far above typical home rates, which shows the result is robust. If your own break-even sits near your actual electricity price, then small changes in rates or driving could flip the comparison.

More Worked Examples

Low-mileage driver with expensive electricity

Scenario: U.S. units: 9,000 miles per year, a gas car at 31 MPG with gas at $3.65, and an EV at 3.2 mi/kWh with electricity at $0.22 per kWh.

Enter 9000, 31, 3.65, 3.2, and 0.22. The tool reports a Gas cost per mile of $0.118 and an EV cost per mile of $0.069. Annual gas cost is $1,060 and Annual EV cost is $619, so the Annual difference is $441 in favor of the EV. Even with pricey electricity and modest mileage, the EV is cheaper to run, but the savings are small enough that purchase price could easily outweigh them.

High-mileage commuter in a thirsty vehicle

Scenario: U.S. units: 18,000 miles per year, a gas SUV at 20 MPG with gas at $3.90, and an EV at 3.5 mi/kWh with electricity at $0.12.

Enter 18000, 20, 3.9, 3.5, and 0.12. Gas cost per mile is $0.195 and EV cost per mile is $0.034. Annual gas cost is $3,510 and Annual EV cost is $617, producing an Annual difference of $2,893 in favor of the EV. A large gap in efficiency, high mileage, and cheap electricity combine here, which is the scenario where the energy savings are most dramatic.

Metric comparison with pricey electricity

Scenario: Metric units: 15,000 km per year, a gas car at 7.2 L/100km with fuel at 1.85 per liter, and an EV at 17 kWh/100km with electricity at 0.30 per kWh.

Switch to Metric and enter 15000, 7.2, 1.85, 17, and 0.30. Gas cost per km is 0.133 and EV cost per km is 0.051. Annual gas cost is 1,998, Annual EV cost is 765, and the Annual difference is 1,233 in favor of the EV. Even at 30 cents per kWh, the EV is ahead, because the gas car's per-kilometer cost is more than double the EV's.

Tips for Better Results

  • Use real-world efficiency from owners of the exact models you are comparing rather than the label alone. Highway speed, winter temperatures, and cabin heating can reduce EV efficiency noticeably, and gas cars are affected by their own versions of these factors.
  • Be honest about your charging mix. If you can charge at home most of the time, your blended price will be close to your utility rate; if you depend on public fast chargers, the blended price may be much higher and the advantage shrinks.
  • Compare against the gas car you would actually buy, not a generic one. A hybrid at 50 MPG narrows the energy-cost gap considerably, and the best EV choice might differ if you are cross-shopping against efficient gas cars.
  • Run the numbers at your real annual mileage and also at a lower figure. If you drive very little, energy savings may be too small to offset a higher purchase price, which is useful to know before you shop.
  • Look up whether your utility offers an EV or time-of-use rate. Cheap overnight pricing can cut the EV side of the comparison substantially, and it only requires charging after bedtime.
  • Pair this tool's output with maintenance, insurance, depreciation, and purchase-price differences, plus any available incentives, to reach a real total cost of ownership comparison, since energy cost alone is only part of the picture.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

  • Mixing up miles per kWh and kWh per 100 miles. The EPA label shows kWh per 100 miles, so divide 100 by that number to get miles per kWh before entering it in U.S. mode.
  • Using a rated efficiency for one vehicle and a measured one for the other. Compare like with like, either both rated or both measured, or the result will be skewed toward whichever number is more optimistic.
  • Treating the annual difference as total savings. It covers only fuel and electricity, so it ignores purchase price, interest, insurance, maintenance, and depreciation, which can swamp energy differences in either direction.
  • Entering the electricity price in cents. A rate of 16 cents is entered as 0.16 dollars per kWh; typing 16 will fail the field's limit or produce nonsense if you bypass it.
  • Forgetting that annual mileage drives the dollar result. If you enter 12,000 miles but actually drive 7,000, the savings are overstated by more than 70 percent, so use your real numbers.

Assumptions and Limits

  • Both vehicles are assumed to achieve the efficiency you enter all year. In reality, cold weather, high speeds, towing, and short trips reduce efficiency for both types of vehicle, though the effect can be larger for EVs in winter.
  • A single electricity price is used for all charging and a single gas price for all fuel purchases. Prices fluctuate, and the tool does not model tiers, demand charges, or seasonal changes.
  • Only energy is compared. Maintenance, insurance, taxes, registration fees, depreciation, financing, and any charger installation cost are excluded, and incentives or fees specific to your region may change the decision.
  • The tool does not apply charging losses, so the EV efficiency figure should reflect energy taken from the wall if you want to include them. Consult a financial professional for major purchase decisions.

Key Terms

Cost per mile
The energy price divided by how many miles that unit of energy delivers. It makes gasoline and electricity directly comparable.
Miles per kWh
How many miles an electric vehicle travels on one kilowatt-hour. Higher numbers indicate greater efficiency, similar to MPG for gas cars.
kWh per 100 km
The electricity an EV uses to travel 100 kilometers, the metric counterpart of miles per kWh. Lower numbers mean better efficiency.
Total cost of ownership
The sum of all costs of owning a vehicle over time, including purchase, financing, energy, insurance, maintenance, and depreciation.
Break-even price
The price of a fuel or electricity at which two vehicles cost the same to run per mile. Beyond it, one option becomes cheaper than the other.
Time-of-use rate
An electricity plan with different prices at different hours, often cheaper overnight, which suits home EV charging.

Frequently Asked Questions

Does this include maintenance costs?+

No, this compares fuel/energy costs only. EVs typically have lower maintenance costs too (no oil changes, fewer moving parts), which would widen the savings further.

Can I compare costs in metric units?+

Yes — switch the unit toggle to Metric and enter annual distance in kilometers, gas consumption in L/100km, and EV efficiency in kWh/100km. Fuel and electricity prices use your local currency.

Where do I find my EV's efficiency rating?+

Check the EPA fuel economy label or your vehicle's trip computer — shown as miles/kWh (U.S.) or kWh/100km (metric). To convert mi/kWh to kWh/100km, divide 62.14 by your mi/kWh figure.

Does public charging change the math?+

Yes — public DC fast charging often costs more per kWh than home charging, so your actual EV costs may be higher if you rely heavily on public chargers.

How do I convert my gas car's MPG to L/100km (or back) to use in metric mode?+

Divide 235.21 by your MPG to get L/100km, and divide 235.21 by your L/100km figure to convert back to MPG — the same constant works both directions because both units already express 'fuel per fixed distance.' For example, 30 MPG works out to about 235.21 ÷ 30 ≈ 7.84 L/100km.

Why might my actual annual savings differ from what this tool shows?+

The calculator multiplies whatever MPG (or L/100km) and mi/kWh (or kWh/100km) figures you type in directly by your annual mileage — it doesn't pull EPA-rated numbers on its own. Real-world efficiency for both gas and electric vehicles is usually a bit lower than the window-sticker rating, especially in cold weather or highway driving, so using your own tracked efficiency from a fill-up or your EV's trip computer will give a more accurate comparison than the rated figures.

How long would it take for an EV to pay back its higher price?+

Divide the extra purchase price by the annual savings, but only after you include the other differences between the two cars. If an EV costs $6,000 more and the annual fuel difference is $1,200, energy alone gives a five-year payback. Insurance, maintenance, incentives, resale value, and financing can lengthen or shorten that estimate, so run a full comparison rather than trusting energy savings alone.

Do EVs really have lower maintenance costs than gas cars?+

Electric vehicles generally have fewer moving parts in the drivetrain and no oil changes, spark plugs, or exhaust systems, which often means lower routine maintenance. Tires, brakes, cabin filters, and suspension still wear, and EVs can be heavy, which may increase tire wear. Repair costs and insurance premiums vary by model, so compare actual quotes for the vehicles you are considering.

What if I cannot charge at home?+

Without home charging, you rely on workplace or public chargers, where prices per kWh are often higher, especially at DC fast chargers. In that case, enter a blended price that reflects where you will actually charge. If the resulting advantage is slim or negative, an EV may still make sense for other reasons, but it matters to know that before buying.

Does this include the effect of gas price changes over several years?+

No. It uses one price for the whole year and gives a snapshot rather than a forecast. To explore how price changes would matter, run the calculation with a higher and a lower gas price and note how the annual difference moves. That shows how sensitive your decision is to fuel prices, without pretending anyone can predict where they will be.

Why does the summary sentence show cents while the annual lines show whole dollars?+

The summary sentence formats the annual savings to the cent, such as $440.93, while the Annual gas cost, Annual EV cost, and Annual difference lines are rounded to whole dollars, such as $441. Both come from the same unrounded calculation, so the values agree to within rounding. When subtracting the two annual costs by hand, expect to be off by a dollar because each displayed figure was rounded separately.

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